Melbourne-based cordwainer Christian Kimber is becoming one of menswear’s most intriguing young designers. After cutting his teeth working on the prestigious Savile Row and learning the footwear trade at London College of Fashion, Kimber relocated to Australia where he completed his studies at RMIT.
While maintaining a certain cult status here in Australia as the footwear for discerning gents, the former Brit has become the must-have shoe of the international fashion set and can now be found in boutiques from New York to Stockholm. His range of considered, hand-crafted footwear speaks to men who value quality craftsmanship and fine aesthetics in equal measure and combines the sharp, stylish aplomb of his native London with a rugged, easy-wearing Australian edge.
In his latest collection, Passport (pictured), he addresses this duality in subtle tensions of colour and construction. Whether it be an olive/slate coloured slip-on inspired by the Victorian coast or a grey suede loafer that looks to the pebbled beaches of Europe, Kimber directly references the world in which he sees his shoes occupying. “The way I design is a little different perhaps, and every pair of shoes has a story, detail a purpose,” Kimber tells Manuscript.
“They also have a meaning, so the shoes are relevant beyond their quality. For instance one of my sneakers is called “Byron” [after the pristine Northern NSW region]. There is a wave in the pattern, and the demarcation left on the shore is represented when the sea leaves the sand. The colours represent the sunset, sand and sea”.
But Kimber’s attention to detail isn’t solely focused to the realm of the visual. With access to the some of the best workshops in both Florence and Spain, Kimber sets a new bar when it comes to quality for men’s footwear. “I spend hours sourcing materials and choosing colours, each to represent the seasonal inspiration, and because I only make a small amount all my shoes are mostly done by hand,” Kimber tells Manuscript.
“The sneakers are made in Italy, about an hour from Florence and they are hand-cut, which is a little different for most sneakers. The Spanish shoes are made in the south of Spain in a beautiful little factory and are Goodyear welted. We use French calf leathers and Italian suede”.
While 2015 has set a precedent of successes – a collaboration with Italian label Eidos; an expansion of his brand into essential accessories including pocket squares and jewellery; and the sell-out success of his first pop-up store in Melbourne – Kimber is already looking to set the bar higher in 2016. With another collaboration underwear, this time with luxury boutique Harrolds and set to reach stores in February, plus the possibility of his first permanent store and a fresh new line inspired by iconic Federation Square, it’s almost certain that Kimber will definitely be making his presence felt.
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