IN CONVERSATION: WATCHMAKER FRANCK MULLER

In a rare and candid interview, Swiss watchmaker Franck Muller speaks with Manuscript about his design process.

Swiss-born watchmaker Franck Muller—the “Master of Complications”—launched his eponymous company in 1991, following years of restoring and handling watches from the collection of Patek Philippe. Last month, Mr Muller toured Australia to celebrate the launch of his new Vanguard collection, which employs his signature Curvex case with robust, nocturnal design. Manuscript had the honour of meeting Mr Muller at the launch of his King St boutique, Sydney, to discuss the ways in which horology’s chief magus aspires to exalt timekeeping from an abstract science to a noble art.

You come from a family of shopkeepers. What kind of atmosphere do you wish to invoke in your own flagship boutiques?
Our boutiques are a reflection of our know-how and pioneering character. Our flagship boutiques enable our customers to get immersed in the Franck Muller universe, from the emblematic numerals to the shape of the furniture and decorations. Every single detail should remind you of the world of Franck Muller.

Which of your watches is your personal favourite?
I do like all the Franck Muller timepieces, but I change almost every day. Every morning I pick a different watch according to my mood, or my outfit. I love very complicated watches such as the Thunderbolt, but sometimes I also like wearing a classic piece such as a regular Cintrée Curvex.

You have said, “I love the idea of the impossible becoming possible”. What is the greatest obstacle you have overcome in your process, and how did you overcome it?
In 2009, we introduced the most complicated watch in the world: the Aeternitas Mega 4. This unique masterpiece features 18 hands, 36 complications (of which 25 are visible on the dial and on the back) and it is composed of 1483 components. The story begun in 2005, when we had the idea of creating a watch with as many hands as possible. It took about five years to develop and create this piece. It was both a challenge and a dream for our team to achieve such a level of prowess. The curved body of the case makes the manufacturing process even more difficult. Thanks to the multifaceted skills of our watchmakers, and the dedication of our constructors, designers and engineers we have been able to achieve this grandiose work of art.

You have mentioned that you use large Arabic numerals because you want to improve the readability. What do you say to the cynics who claim that the more complicated the watch, the more difficult it is to read the time?
The Arabic numerals are part of the Franck Muller DNA and people recognise our watches and like them because of their distinctive dials. Nevertheless, the Franck Muller watches also feature other numerals, for instance Roman and vintage numbers, which are easy to read.

You have previously said, “We are adapting to new markets that do not as of yet have a deeply ingrained horological culture.” Which markets are you attempting to penetrate?
The Middle East region and Dubai are very strong markets and we recently opened a new flagship store in Dubai.

Horology is to the Swiss what Haute Couture is to the French. What do you think would be the most obvious change if the industry were to migrate elsewhere?
The tradition is one of the most important characters of the Swiss watchmaking industry. All the Franck Muller timepieces are manufactured with an innovative spirit and great technique whilst fully respecting the Swiss watchmaking tradition.

You once said, “I have lots of ideas for new collections, but whether or not its goes into production is a different thing”. Have you ever conceived an idea that you were later told would be too difficult to realise?
The brand Franck Muller, also known as “The Master of Complications,” always tries to push the boundaries of watchmaking further. Since its beginning the brand has introduced the World Premiere, new pieces never seen before, unique both in terms of design and technical complications. Thanks to our passion, independence of production and dedicated teams we are able to manufacture pieces that have never been seen before.

What’s something about Franck Muller—the man—that your fans might be surprised to learn about you?
All year long I follow the sun. From Geneva to Japan and from Monaco to Phuket, my life is my inspiration and I love travelling to get new ideas.