The International Woolmark Prize has become an industry standard of excellence in innovative design using Australian Merino wool. An international award, it acknowledges burgeoning fashion designers from Europe, Asia, and, of course, Australia. The prize winner receives AUD$100,000 sponsorship and their Merino wool capsule collection will be stocked in more than one dozen of the world’s most prestigious fashion retailers. Designer Paul Smith, Style.com Editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Nick Wooster are just some of the esteemed judges set to decide the winner of the prestigious prize. The winner of the award, which applauds design excellence with the use of Australia’s own Merino wool as the primary criteria, will be chosen on January 9, 2015, coinciding with day one of London Collections: Men. We spoke to each of the finalists about their nominated designs and what the prize means to them.
ASGER JUEL LARSEN - EUROPE
Graduating with a BA and an MA in 2011 from the London College of Fashion, Asger Juel Larson has since delivered his own particular brand of adventurism and risk-taking to the European menswear landscape. Hailing from Denmark, but taking root in London, Larsen emphasises ideas of masculinity, strength and vulnerability, reinterpreting the notions of sophisticated androgyny.
How have you used wool as part of your design concept?
The idea has been to use merino wool in the most authentic way possible considering the purity and wildness of the sheep.
Explain the story behind the look.
The essential idea has been to go backwards and then forwards. With this, I mean looking at the traditional values and benefits when using fine merino wool and then casting an eye to the future to make something that is different and exciting.No doubt I wanted to create something that stands out, but at the same time being aware that each garment might be retailed later on, so the focus has been to really work with the fabric, colour development and the supplier to create something special.
What do you hope to get from the prize?
To win the prize would mean a huge deal to us as a company. The cash prize will no doubt assist us as a company to grow steadily in the right pace. And of course the honour to have reached the final and present the 6 outfits for the jury as well as the brand awareness is something that doesn’t come around often.
PUBLIC SCHOOL - USA
Public School, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s distinctly ‘New York’ label, accentuates a simple yet masterful design aesthetic – a refined colour palette, meticulous tailoring and top-quality fabrics are all top priority. A relatively young label, Public School have only been showing collections since 2012. Their progression into the final round of the Woolmark Prize is suggestive of unshakable talent, and a promising future.
How have you used wool as part of your design concept?
As a finalist for this year’s International Woolmark Prize we’re excited and honored to present a collection around Merino Wool and its many great benefits. Our concept for this challenge was based on the fact that Merino wool is the most universal and oldest fiber to be sourced for human use. Its ability to protect and adjust to natural elements informed our approach to designing the collection. We were thoroughly impressed throughout the challenge by the countless ways merino wool could be used to help any and every lifestyle. Easily cleanable, protection from UV rays and extreme breathability are all benefits that resonate with even the most modern cultures. And since Public School is so much about adapting to the restless energy of major cities around the globe we feel a strong synergy to continue incorporating merino wool into our own collections.
Explain the story behind the look.
Taking place in a lost civilisation somewhere between ancient times and the post apocalypse—where merino wool is the only fiber that exists—we wanted to create a traditional uniform of sorts that functioned and adapted to the varying lifestyle of this lost tribe. Whether it’s hunting through the harsh winters or staying dry and cool during the monsoon drenching summers, we looked at the many natural attributes of merino wool; moisture wicking, water repellency, heat insulation and extreme durability, to develop a full range of garments that would be critical to the survival of these people. Since winning the CFDA/Swarovski Award for Menswear last year and the CFDA Menswear Award this past June we’ve continued to hone in on developing the sophisticated ease and minimalism of our brand. Focusing on blending tailoring and sportswear, we believe that our boy and girl should have a wardrobe of modern, versatile pieces that can transcend day to evening.
What do you hope to get out of the prize?
Having taken home the top prize at last year’s CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund we were fortunate enough to use our prize money to help build our ever-growing staff with a strong focus in design. We also understand that it takes a strong commitment to high quality and timely production, as well as consistently well fitting clothes to build a true business. And under the watchful eye of such amazing mentors such as Anna Wintour, Andrew Rosen and Rodrigo Bazan we have set out to tackle the following initiatives over the next 5 years: grow womenswear and accessories, expand our international reach and ultimately launch our own retail business.
SISE - ASIA
Sise translates roughly into English as innocence + insanity, representing the two notions behind the brand’s aesthetic. Focusing primarily on androgynous silhouettes and superiorly crafted, monochromatic street wear, Seishin Matsui has affirmed his position as an important Japanese fashion designer.
How have you used wool as part of your design concept?
We chose to concentrate on the diverse and modern ways to utilise the classic wool fabric.
Explain the story behind the look.
Made looks based on “THIS MOMENT” as the concept.
What do you hope to get from the prize?
Challenge to the world’s market.
STRATEAS.CARLUCCI - AUSTRALIA
Australian design team Peter Strateas and Mario Luca Carlucci debuted in 2013 with an Autumn/Winter collection. They have since been going from strength to strength over the past year, with their structural, minimalist design aesthetic proving resilient in the face of the many challenges faced by young fashion designers.
How have you used wool as part of your design concept?
We wanted to explore the versatility of wool and showcase it used diversely through innovation and technique, however also how we applied the fabrication to particular garments and silhouettes. Essentially we created 3 main areas – The classic (Tradition) which began with the wool fibre itself, The Contemporary (Technology) pushing innovation, and The Hybrid – merging these two worlds. Through this approach we created some new ways of working with wool and also through the application to the garments, creating interesting ways to wear them.
Explain the story behind the look.
Our Woolmark collection is entitled “INDIGITAL” and we drew inspiration from the late Australian Indigenous artist Emily Kame Kngwarreye and is an extension of our regional entry. Kngwarreye’s work was unique, in that her subject matter and iconography was deep rooted in the tradition of her tribe and people, however her painting style is a remarkable departure from traditional Aboriginal Indigenous art. Her style was best described as “gestural abstractionism” through her use of her fluid and unrestrained brush strokes, heavy applications and textured works. We were drawn to this idea of tradition vs modernity. This notion of tradition vs contemporary, led us to the exploration of further binary oppositions. We explored this idea in fabric; silhouette and the way the two ideas work together.
What do you hope to get from the prize?
This prize is one of the biggest for any emerging designer globally, and simply taking part is truly humbling. We are excited about the opportunities presented despite the outcome and also the amazing industry leaders and talented people we meet along the way.
THE EMPEROR 1688 - INDIA & MIDDLE EAST
Originating from the Middle East, the Golkar Brothers’ fashion label The Emperor 1688 is by no means confined to this region. Sourcing the finest and fibres from mills all over Europe, the brothers are determined to bring their luxurious products to the rest of the world. Being chosen as a finalist is another in a string of achievements since the label’s launch in 2007, including winning the prestigious Esquire Designer of the Year award in 2011, and being nominated again for this award in 2012.
How have you used wool as part of your design concept?
Wool for us is something that has movement and is never static from the moments the fibre is on the sheep to the time it is woven and eventually cut into a garment, its always in transition and change.
Explain the story behind the look.
We looked at this sense of movement and compared it to tribal movements of Central Asian tribes and the similar movement we have in our modern lives.
What do you hope to get from the prize?
The Journey for the IWP has been such an eye opener for us. As designers we want to be pushed and put in a position to think more than what we use when it comes to creativity. This process has not only helped us push our creative vision but also and somewhat more importantly the importance of fibre to product. How to translated creativity into a product that not only encompasses a fibre but also is something of commercial value.
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