Needless to say, caring for your shoes is as important as the style you choose. Most good shoes’ soles are connected to the insole and uppers by handstitching rather than glue, meaning the sole can be replaced without damaging the upper of the shoe. This is not only better for wet weather but increase the life-span of your shoes.
The key is to find a good shoe-repair and visit them often. According to Sydney-based cobbler Osvalgo Marin, who has been repairing shoes for nearly 30 years, adding ‘taps’ to the front and rear heels acts as a buffer between the heel and the ground, helping to prevent heel erosion. Though, he notes, don’t add these right away, as the shoes should first adapt to your feet. While the upper of a leather shoe should last tens of years, the sole, much like tyres, takes a beating, so treat them with care and replace them as often as needed (every 18 months or so).
Leather is the perfect material for shoes as it is an animal skin and thus has pores that breathe, helping your feet to. But like your skin, it’s important to apply moisturisers and oils to maintain their soft pliability. Dedicate some time to shoe care every few weeks in your home as well. It’s important to keep leather shoes well-oiled to avoid them discolouring, drying out and stiffening. Placing your shoes in shoe trees – expandable wooden fillers – when not in use will stop them developing creases and help to preserve their shape.
Kiwi is the most popular shoe care brand, originally made in Australia in 1906, and is available at most supermarkets and shoe-repair stores, although Angelus is more suited to high quality leather shoes, evidenced by its vast range of products. In any case, bees wax-based polishes are recommended, as they penetrate the surface of leathers better.
CONDITION Remove laces before beginning and apply this to all new purchases. Many wax-polishes both condition and polish shoes, so this step is optional if you want to give your shoes the full treatment. A conditioner penetrates the leather and restores its natural oils, and the remaining film of wax can be buffed into a satin finish. This can also be used on leather bags, upholstery and saddles.
POLISH A tin of shoe polish will last you a good while, and will help protect the leather of your shoes and increase their shine and water resistance. Purchase a double-sided shoe brush, applying a fine layer of wax-polish to your shoes in a circular motion, leave for a few minutes for the wax to melt into the leather, and buff with the larger brush side in a back-and-forth motion. Finish by polishing with a cloth. Some men use a damp cloth (known as a spit-shine in the military), but most good waxes will do the job without this. Remember to clean dust and particles from the shoes before beginning.
WATERPROOF Water is leather’s worst enemy. Waterproof every new purchase – particularly suede and nubuck leather. Many waterproofers come as a spray (such as Kiwi’s ‘Aquastop’ or Angelus’ ‘Water and Stain Repellent’).
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